The Ensemble as a Complex Artistic Solution in Costume Design

Abstract

       An ensemble in costume design requires perfect artistic and harmonious coordination across each element of the collection as a whole. This includes the stylistically accurate representation of form, color, texture, or decor. Each element's form is a rhythmic repetition of the preceding one, yet these elements cannot be viewed independently as an artistic system, since they constitute a group of interdependent forms connected by silhouette, color, and texture.

      The word "ensemble" is of French origin and means “together” (tight connection, inseparability). The concept of the ensemble emerged at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, during the Art Nouveau era (1890–1900). In the 20th century, the ensemble became a kind of "pinnacle" that fashion designers strived to conquer—especially couturiers, who, unlike stylists working in industry, created models for individual clients, developing complete costumes including hats, shoes, gloves, and other accessories. In fashion design, the costume ensemble is considered the highest form of achieving unity in artistic expression.[1]

      However, the concept of the ensemble evolved throughout the 20th century. For example, in the 1920s, an ensemble solution meant a unified color scheme across the entire costume: the hat, gloves, shoes, handbag, umbrella, etc., were chosen to match the dress or suit. The decoration and color of the dress were echoed in the accessories. The ensemble maintained its significance even during World War II. Its true triumph came after the war, in the era of the “New Look,” when Christian Dior established clear rules of good taste and revived the image of the elegant woman. A dress or suit was to be complemented by a matching hat, gloves, and more.[2]